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ITRI "Commune decorated with Bronze Medals for Civil Bravery" Provincia di LATINA *** Regione L A Z I O |
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ITRI-The Castle
Origins the coat arms /Campello/The Castle/The Church of St.Michele A./Church of St.Maria M./The Convent of St.Martino/The Monastery of St.Francesco/Fondi/Monastery of Passionist Priests/The Fort of St.Andrew/Calvi/The Monti Aurunci Park/The economical development/Traditions/The Promotional Office/Associations/Famouse people.
ORIGINS·
The Vatican City ·
The Maggiore Gallery – Fresco ·
Geographical detail of Idro (Itri) Itri
is situated at 170 m. above sea level and its population is a little more
than 9000. It’s territory extends for 101,15 sq. km. Itri, a country town
of the southern pontino, has two distinct built-up living areas that are
divided in two by the Appia highway n°7. It lies 134 km. away from Rome and
91 km. from Naples. The origins of its name are quite uncertain. Historians and scholars of native land history refer to various theories. Some believe that its name derives from ITER; the presence of an inscription on a block of stone found on the left hand side of Porta Mamurra confirms this thesis. Others are inclined towards a more effective thesis, that of the presence of a rampant snake on Porta Mamurra. According to this thesis the inhabitants of Amiclae, fled from their land to seek refuge from an invasion of snakes and so these were the real founders of Itri.
Hopefully, the total rebuilding of the castle will bring it to an
appropriate use because it is what the historical centre and the people of
Itri expect, in particular the cultural associations who hope to carry out
interesting cultural activities there. The Italian Post Office Group has
positively contributed in making a name for the castle through the issue of
a post card. An important philatelic exhibition and congress were held by
the municipality on the 26th December 1995, where, the president
of the Post Office Corporation, Mr. Enzo Cardi, was one of the important
guest-speakers along with other authoritative men of culture. The Mayor,
Mr.Egidio Agresti, in giving his greetings and talking about the castle and
its history, wished a further financial interest be given in order to
continue and finish the works for the complete restoration of the castle.
Works that at the time of this congress had already reached a good point. Often
one reads “Fra Diavolo’s castle”, but it seems rather
daring to associate the local hero with the castle. However, many tourists
who come to visit the historical centre (especially during the summer-time)
stroll through charming narrow streets and arches, fascinated, but at the
same time frightened in admiring from such a short distance the
impressiveness of the castle, and asking information about the character,
often confused between legend and history, nick-named Fra Diavolo, known as
Michele Pezza during his century. With a great deal of fantasy, one can
imagine him walking through those streets where he grew up, the great
guerrilla who got caught by the French troops during their occupation in the
Reign of Naples. However, I shall talk about him later on in my script in
further detail.
This
itinerary of upper Itri continues with a few words about the Convent
of St.Martino. As already said, it was destroyed in 1944 and later
re-constructed and it is now run by the Alcantarine Nuns. On the 23rd
October 1977, on the occasion of the deposition of the banner of the Madonna
of the Civita, which since the month of March had been hoisted in Piazza
Incoronazione in memory of the bi-centenary, Monsignor Luigi Maria Carli,
archbishop of Gaeta, inaugurated the “Rest Home for the Old”, entitled
to Holy Mary of the Civita.In ancient times it was situated outside the
walls on the hill of St. Martino in Pagano, and had been abandoned due to
the reduced number of nuns present, it was then re-built within the walls.
Some authors determine that the old convent was a place where the Saracen
Corsair Khair ed Din, so called Red beard, irrupted to find the Countess
Giulia Gonzaga; she had escaped the night between the 8th and the
9th of August 1534. He wanted to abduct the lady, who was known
as on of the rare beauties of those times, in order to bring her as a gift
to the Magnificent Solimano II. Giulia fled, and her town Fondi was looted,
its inhabitants were decimated and the town was put on fire. Amongst the few
survivors some were taken to the orient as slaves. The day before the same
thing had happened to the nearby town of Sperlonga.
Giulia Gonzaga The missed attempt to capture Lady Giulia, brought the Saracens to massacre the Benedictine nuns. The author Mr. B.Amante, in his book Giulia Gonzaga, Countess of Fondi (Zanichelli edition – anastatic copy) points out instead, that the place where the massacre occurred was in “the nun’s convent, a few kilometres away from the town of Fondi, on top of a hill along the new Appia road, which from Fondi brings to Naples…was put on fire……….”. Mr. Amante precises that he had excavations carried out on that site and they found skulls that probably belonged to the victims.The Turks had tried to reserve the same fate for Itri, but the people of Itri did not make themselves be taken by surprise and hiding behind the castle walls, bravely resisted the enemy, in a way that Red Beard had to desist and having subsequently sailed off for Tunisi, by pure chance, avoided encountering an army of 5 to 6 thousand men, set up in a great hurry by Pope Clementine VIIth, the command of which had been assigned to the Cardinal Ippolito de Medici. The Monastery of St.Francesco, founded in 1324 and is situated in the lower part of the town, in the past it had some importance when in 1487 the Count Onorato II Caetani of Fondi lived there. Chronicles of the time made it however famous for the death of the Cardinal Ippolito dei Medici, which occurred on the 10th August 1435, who was about to leave for Tunisi to reach Carlo V. They say that he was poisoned. Ippolito had participated in a shooting party, tournaments and various other entertainments in Fondi at Giulia Gonzaga’s Court, woman for whom he nourished “deep sentiments”, so profound that in June 1532 he engaged the famous painter of those times, Mr. Sebastiano del Piombo, to portray the beautiful noblewoman, who had also been immortalized by Tiziano, by Branzino and other famous painters. His apparent illness was caused by malaria and his house steward Mr. G.Andrea da Borgo did the rest by poisoning him. Lady Giulia, who was immediately informed, went to Itri where she nursed him until he died, “his death was less arduous being near his Lady Giulia, who gave him virtuous attention,” so writes Mr. Giovio who was present to the scene.As one can see, these historical events were common to both Itri and Fondi, and it could not have been but so, Itri being part of Fondi’s feud, which thanks to the presence of Lady Giulia, became for about a decade the meeting place for artists and men of letters of the times. The famous musician Mr. Ariosto dedicated to the beautiful lady an octave of his famous “Orlando Furioso”. Four months after the Cardinal’s death the Countess Gonzaga retired to the convent adjacent to the church of St.Francesco of the Neapolitan Nuns, where she died on the 19th April 1566.
The
church of St. Cristoforo, (remains) was founded on the 19th May 1348, it was
placed on a hillock behind Itri and can be reached across a mule-track. The
church has no roof, but the frescos inside are still in a good state of
condition, thanks to their covered position within the surroundings.
“Archaeological evidence in the Calvi Area of Itri” is the title of an interesting script written by Dr.Marisa de’Spagnolis, archaeologist, born in Itri, describing “of great interest is the archaeological situation in the territory of Itri in the area so called Calvi in the direction of Sperlonga. It is an ancient road path, which leaves off from the S. Marco road and continues in the direction of Sperllonga, upheld by redone constructions during the course of the centuries. This road is 4m. wide and presents traces of located paving stone slabs, many edges of which have been up rooted. This road was less frequently used after the creation of the modern carriageway Itri-Sperlonga, which reached the small town situated in sinus Amjclanus, with a shorter route than the modern road, it touches the Corano , Vagnoli and Magliana localities. Along this track there are a number of archaeological evidences aligned and attest that the area was frequented from the Republican age to the beginning of the imperial age.” The “Museo del Brigantaggio” is in a phase of preparation and will be placed in the Ex ONMI building perfectly redecorated. The works are directed by the architect Mr. Brasiliano for the structure, while Prof. Padigione, lecturer at the University Sapienza of Rome, is in charge of the setting up of the museum. Its opening is foreseen for the summer 2002, and I shall report news about the inauguration. At
about twenty minutes from Itri it is possible to go on a hike of great
interest. Following the SS.82 Valle del Liri road (which was made build by
Ferdinando II, king of Naples) shortly after the crossroad that takes to the
SANCTUARY of the MADONNA of the CIVITA, it is possible to take
the first turning on the right, in the proximity of the St. Nicola gorge, a
tarred road that takes to the Marciano locality and so reach the first
fountain called Tozzo, then pass over the Forcella di CAMPELLO (843m.)
and then reach the plateaux (1000m.) so called, of Campello and old Campello
by walking along side the woods of the costa della tavola
between Mount Viola and Mount Ferrazzano. The territory of great
naturalistic interest has recently been incorporated into the Natural
Park of the Monti Aurunci. This
is an organization made up by the territories of the provinces of Frosinone
and Latina and by four Mountain Communities (XVI, XVII, XIX, XXII). It is
the most southern park of the protected Latium areas. The limestone
composition of the rocks is cause of the absence of watercourses. The park
was created in 1997 and extends for 19.374 hectares, its headquarters are in
Campodimele (Lt.) in the Taverna town district. For further information
about the Park, through a link found in the introduction, one can go
straight to the official website of the local authorities. Campello
is a protected area full of woods made of age old Holm oaks, Elms, Beeches
and Hornbeam trees. It is not rare to see the Peregrine falcon in flight,
and scattered here and there shoots of Plantanthera chlorantha, the
colourless orchid that is a character of its species, and one of the 50
varieties that botanists have been able to locate in the park territory. The
undergrowth is covered with typical Mediterranean bush, broom and a
populating of Ampelodesma (straw) used in ancient times to produce
hemp and horsehair. Today it is worked and transformed into objects of
various kinds for the joy and interest of tourists, who come to Itri during
the summer while on holiday on the Tyrrhenian coast to enjoy the cool
climate in the evening hours in search of monuments, typical cooking and
local craftsman products. THE ECONOMICAL DEVELOPMENTMurat Fountain 1944
More than once, in referring to the last world war, I have pointed out the
bad conditions of monuments historical places that underwent violent
bombings, and what more, the sacrifice of human lives that Itri had to
sustain. 133 citizens were missing from the local community after various
air raids, device explosions and other mournful events. 152 were the men of
Itri who died in war actions across the country, five silver medals were
given for military valour, five bronze ones and various war crosses to
testify their value. The commune of Itri was decorated with a bronze medal
for civil value and the declaration of a disaster area commune prove how
devastating were the happenings both to men and things.
Traditions
Amongst the various happenings during the year, which
characterize the social life of the people of Itri, some are felt in a very
particular way. The festivity that most unites the local community is the
feast of the “Madonna della Civita”, this religious feast, which I
shall talk about in further detail elsewhere, is celebrated with intense
sentiment by the whole population. The important festivities are “Fuochi
di S.Giuseppe”( St.Joseph’s bonfires) and the “Infiorata”. The
later has reached its sixteenth edition.
THE INFIORATA (FLORAL DISPLAY OF PICTURES)
CULTURAL AND ASSOCIATIVE
EXPRESSIONS There are a number of associations that during the year give life to demonstrations of various natures. There is a theatrical company that periodically stages plays of certain fame, without omitting folk theatre, which draw out moments of life typical to folk culture. Football, basketball and handball are the main sports practised in competitive ways. Musical encounters are often present, and during the summer period, open-air concerts are held as well as in the churches, organized by the local music association. During recent years, through the associated effort of tradition lovers, an exhibition called “Arti e Mestieri in disuso” (obsolete craftsmanship and trade) has been organized, and it is unique in its kind in the whole of the south Pontino; its aims are to rediscover ancient jobs, which are not practised any longer, but are an essential part of the culture of this land. Once again, Itri on this occasion attracts the interest of many visitors from other towns and often tourists on holiday along the Tyrrhenian coast. The various residential areas also promote other initiatives, and sometimes they are in competition with one another organizing interesting sporting events and culinary festivals. Last but not least, but of relevant importance is the voluntary activity done by the E.R.I. association, which is inherent to different forms; varying from lending help in bush fires to active participation of protection to all the public entertainment held in Itri. Particular
aid is given to the less well off by the Catholic Association of the parish
churches St.Maria Maggiore and St.Angelo and by the Italian Red Cross that is
present with a qualified group of volunteers. These being the so many
associations that one risks to forget other realities, but I wish to harm no
one in forgetting them. My primary interest was to give a general picture of
the many existing organizations that make of Itri a dynamic and friendly
little town projected towards a noteworthy economical development both
cultural and tourist wise with an open mind towards new realities that
integrate well with the millenary history of this land and with the pride of
those who live in it. Surely the Committee “Il Castello” deserves a mention of merit, because since 1976 it has given life to interesting and noteworthy cultural manifestations. The “Committee”, led by Mrs. Concetta Sinapi, carries out work of historical research on Fra’Diavolo, on the traditions and on uses and customs, so arousing great interest in all. The main aim of the group was to extract the historical centre out of the oblivion it had fallen into after the war, giving it a new up lift with cultural shows, musical folk encounters and painting exhibitions so giving a new value to monuments and charming spots. The results were more than satisfying, and their effort noteworthy. Today upper Itri, thanks to them, has new turmoil and life, which if contained and directed towards the respect of the safeguard laws belonging to historical centres, will have, even with the re building of the castle, the new boost it deserves.
Many
are the characters that have enriched Itri’s history with their efforts:
hereunder are some brief and useful historical-biographical notes.
Bartolomeo
Prignano,
the archbishop of Bari was elected in 1378 with the name of Urbano VI. G. Battista Manzi (1831 – 1912), priest and mathematician. Teacher
and Superiorat of the Alberoni College of Piacenza, member of various
academies. Nicola
Judicone (1806 – 1880) teacher of law in Naples intimate friend of
Francesco De Santis, who defined him in a note, addressed to Edoardo Pandola
“a rare man”,” an excellent teacher”. Raffaele
Gigante (1816 – 1896), patriot, member of the National Parliament from
1865 to 1874, in the IX, X and XI legislation he represented Gaeta, and that
of Agnone in the XII, with an active participation to parliamentary works. Paolo
(Scipione) Burali d’Arezzo (1512 – 1578), was a brilliant lawyer in Naples; at the age of
46 he entered the Teatini order. He refused the assignment of the bishop’s
palace both in Brindisi and Crotone that had been offered to him by the King
of Spain, Philip II, but had to give obedience to the Pope S. Pio V, who
named him Bishop of Piacenza, then Cardinal. He was a friend of S. Carlo
Borromeo, who sustained his candidature as Sovereign Pontiff in the conclave
after the death of Pio V, from which resulted elected the Cardinal
Buoncompagni (Gregorio XIII) reformer of the calendar. The cardinal Burali
against the reform, was named in 1576, Archbishop of Naples and died only
two years later. On the 8th June 1772, Pope Clemente XIV, crowned
him with the aureole of the blessed and praised him to the honours of altars. Monsignor
Ernesto Jallonghi (1876 – 1934) religious man and writer who dedicated to his
land works that are the base of Itri’s history, the Madonna of the
Civita and her Sanctuary and the biography of Fra’Diavolo, as
well as Bourbons and French at Montecassino. There are many other
scripts amongst which La
religiosità del Carducci and Il misticismo dantesco, works which were
later taken care of by P. Scaramuzzi. He died at the age of 58 in Rome and
was buried in the central chapel in the cemetery of Itri.Noteworthy
characters gave an important contribute to the Italian Risorgimento, amongst
these are Mr. D.Michele Manzi, passionate revolutionary and friend of
Gioberti and Mazzini; Gennaro Bonelli Nicola Judicone and Raffaele Gigante,
with whom he was imprisoned for patriotic activities. Giovanni
Burali d’Arezzo, nobleman, lawyer, knight of the order of Malta, vice
mayor of Naples and died on 27th May 1894. Michele
Pezza better known as Fra’ Diavolo of whom I have given a
historical account elsewhere. However,
in Itri one can find scripts by various authors for better and more fully
accounted details about places and people. (Go to the page news).
©Written by Pino Pecchia ©Translated by Paola Sepe
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